Day 6: Beaver Creek to Fairbanks

August 5/2010: Laundry day. If only Hailey had brought more clothes with her, she wouldn't have to wear her bathing suit in the laundry mat.

We've been meeting some very cool people on the trip, including Sue and Robyn who rode up here from California.

After leaving Beaver Creek at the crack of 2 pm, and fueled by lots of coffee, we made it to the border.

 

But now that we're here officer, just how closely do we have to follow the speed regulations?

Then we stopped for a little something to eat at Fast Eddie's in Tok.

Maria having to sit down in order to put on her rain suit. Eventually, Hailey had to help.

After a grease-filled but super yummy meal at Fast Eddie's we drove in the rain. Man, does it ever rain here. This is me struggling to put on my rain suit over my boots. I seem to have a similar problem with my new mesh riding pants. Who are these people who design motorcycle gear? Do they have any idea how awkward it is to have to take off your boots each time you want to gear up, or remove your gear? Plus, by the time you've put on all the gear you gotta piddle. Can I hear an amen?

We stayed overnight at the University of Alaska dorms that has a special $43/night rate for motorcyclists. Spread the good word. (907-474-7247; housing@uaf.edu)

Tired. Not drunk. Tired

Our dorm room--clean, cozy and cheap. However, the glow-in-the-dark writing on the ceiling kind of freaked us out. The inscription above Hailey's bed read "I'm watching" while I stared at a demonic face all night. What the heck?

Day 5 (part 2); Teslin to Beaver Creek

August 4/2010: After spending the night in Teslin (home of that massive grated bridge) we rode to Whitehorse and spent the day doing chores.

Preparing to clean and lube our chains.
People in Whitehorse are very friendly - we got at least three men offering to help us.

Had a great Mexican meal at Sanchez Catina.

We didn't do any non-motorcycle related shopping in Whitehorse. But this sign did give Maria some ideas on how to get rid of her crap, um, "collectibles."

Lake Kluane: We rode through strong crosswinds from Whitehorse to Destruction Bay. But the scenery was worth it.

Hailey and I like to ride at night, taking advantage of the 11:30 pm sunsets.The road from Destruction Bay to Beaver Creek was lunar; huge craters and patches of everything--gravel, earth, fresh pavement, old pavement, sealed crush. It was a big mess and all of the danger spots were unmarked. But we LOVED it!! Sure it took us 3.5 hours to go 190kms, in the dark but it felt like a real adventure. Or was that a roller coaster. Oh yeah, and we saw a porcupine. Total wildlife count so far: numerous deer, 4 bears, 1 moose and a porcupine. And guess what, not one single bunny! 

Arrived in Beaver Creek at 2 am. Stayed in a shitty hotel full of drama between the staff and and the owner, but not in a good sort of Fawlty Towers way.

Day 5: Teslin to ????

August 4/2010: We're in Destruction Bay, Yukon, heading north and hoping to make the Alaska border tonight. But we just had to stop for some pie (pecan if you're interested) and another computer hit. An article about us was published in our local paper. Our mileage thus far (as in right now as the bikes sit outside the restaurant) is 2,900 kms.

Day 4: Forest fire--Dease Lake to Teslin

August 3/2010: We got up really early this morning, riding through epic mountain mist (visibility 10-15 feet) and freshly graded loose gravel. It took us an hour to ride just 40kms.

Inside the only store in Jade City.

At the bottom of the hill we came to Jade City, population 34. Isn't there some sort of rule that you have to actually be a city before you can call yourself one?

Next there was the fuel issue. Motorcycles have small fuel tanks and there are few gas stations on that highway. The last one on the route had run out of gas. So by the time we arrived at the fire barricade we had just enough fuel to get through the fire and not enough to make it back to an open gas station.

Four hours later we're at the road closure, waiting with 40 other vehicles to travel through the fire to the Alaska Highway. Some of these people have been waiting for two days!

Abi, Marc, Fiona, Hailey, Maria

We met some cool folks while waiting for the road to reopen. We hung out together for two hours and then rode through the fire. Check out Marc's blog. http://www.frenchysrant.com/

Riding through the forest fire at the top of Highway 37. Thanks to Fiona for snapping these photos from the back of Marc's bike.

Once we made it to the Alaskan border it was time for a treat and a ride in the sunshine.

Another photo courtesy of Fiona.

Watsons Lake.

This is the Nitsutlin bridge on the way to Teslin. At 0.6km,  it is the longest overwater bridge on the highway AND it's grated! No surprise that there's a bar at the other end of it.

Day 3: Heading to the fire--Smithers to Dease Lake

Highway 37 Both Directions

Closed in both directions between Beaverdam Rest Area, at KM 650 and the BC/Yukon Border because of Forest Fire. Temporary opening is planned for Aug. 2nd Northbound traffic will be escorted through the fire at 8:00 AM. Southbound at 9:30 A.M. Low Confidence level. These openings may be cancelled at any time due to extremely unpredictable fire behaviour. Recommended route is via Hwy 97, Alaska Hwy. Next update at 8:00 pm Aug 2nd. Updated on Mon.Aug 2nd at 8:30 am (ID# 98697)

 Today's Drive BC Road Report

Forest fire at the BC/Yukon border.

August 2/2010: We're in Smithers this morning, using the business centre at the Hudson Bay Lodge. Had a wonderful breakfast but then found out that our route North along Highway 37 (to Watson Lake) is closed because of a forest fire. So we've looked at taking a ferry from Prince Rupert to anywhere in Alaska but that's a no go. We're just going to boot it up there and hope to go through the border with the next fire escort. It's a two day ride from here.

This is the last stop before we head to Highway 37N and, eventually, to the Alaskan Highway. We met a group of bikers who tried very hard to persuade us to go to Stewart and avoid the fire. But you can't get to anywhere but Hyder from Stewart so we decide to stick to our route. This is Darrell who gifted us with two new expressions. My nerdy yellow reflective safety vest is a "hit me vest." And if you happen to be unemployed then your current occupation is "fresh air inspector."

Meziadin Lake is a lot smaller in real life then on the map. As in there is nothing here! Maria flagged down a passing biker to ask for news of the next gas station and the fire. We're off to Bell II for grub and gas.

In Bell II, we met Corey the massage therapist from Colorado who gave us each a free massage!

There are bugs up here. We just make sure to keep our visors closed so we don't end up eating them.

 Dease Lake liquor store. Yep, this is the whole place--smaller than my office at UVic. Note the brand loyalty. Seems people here really really like Budweiser.

Day 2: Lillooet to Burns Lake

August 1/2010: Breakfast a go-go--bananas, yogurt, cookies and Clamato juice!

Clint: This one's for you baby!

We could smell the smoke as we drove through clouds of it approaching Williams Lake. There are forest fires in the area and warnings that parts of Highway 37 North are closed. Gulp.

"Brad" the Pom, and his driver Dave enroute from Williams Lake to Prince George.

Spreading the gospel of Lemon Pledge to nurse Carleen in Prince George. She says she's going to ride her 1984 Shadow 750 to Victoria at the end of the summer and come for a ride with us. We're holding you to that Carleen!

Heading into the rain and Burns Lake. Saw our first bear enroute.

We stopped for gas along the "Highway of Tears." This sign is a sad reminder of how vulnerable our lives can be. Right across the street from this sign a woman was hitchhiking. 

According to the barmaid at Mulvany's Pub in Burns Lake, the #1 drink of choice among the residents is beer. The second is "holy water" and the third is "trouble." Of course, being the true adventurer that she is, Hailey tried all three. Here she is drinking trouble. PS: I was the designated walker as our hotel was across the street.

There was no food to be had in Burns Lake. Luckily we had some camping soup and a coffee pot to make it in!