Day 16: The fire barrier to Iskut

Morning on the Highway.

August 15/2010: After a fun night on the pavement, we were joined by nine other motorcyclists.

Including Wayne, who we met in Tok a few days back.

Of course, the barricade didn't open at 9 o'clock. So we had breakfast at Sally's Cafe with  Linda and Clint from Texas, and Wayne from Vancouver.

This sign in Sally's washroom gave us a giggle.

A few hours later we rode through the fire--77 kms of smoke. We don't have any photos of that ride because, hey, we were concentrating on getting through it. But I snapped this photo of Wayne and Hailey 40 kms south of the fire. As you can see, the smoke was still pretty thick.

Sparkle's first flat tire

Wayne decided to hang out with us for awhile so we rode to Dease Lake together, where Hailey got her first flat tire. (Note the foreshadowing.)

Turns out Hailey has hidden mechanical talents.

Day 15: Destruction Bay to the fire barrier (junction of Highway 37N and the Alaska Highway)

Maria catching some zzzzzzzzs.

August 14/2010:  We've discovered that the forest fire that we rode through earlier in our trip has actually spread, and Highway 37 is closed again. This is a problem for us as it is the ONLY route that we can take to get home in time. Vehicles are being escorted through the fire on an irregular basis. We've got to get a move on and grab opportunity we can get--it's 680 kms away!

Junction to Highway 37.

When we got to the fire barrier, we were greeted with this confidence-inspiring signage. However, the guys guarding the barricade said that there might be a crossing at 9 the next morning.

Getting ready for bed.

So we decided to make the most of it and camp on the pavement. We had cup-o-noodle soup, cheezies, chocolate and red wine for dinner. Party on!

Day 14: Tok to Destruction Bay

August 13/2010: Today's theme is road construction. Lots of it.

While waiting for the pilot car to lead us through the freshly graded deep loose gravel, this flagperson entertained us with tales of bikers having accidents and hitting bears. His delivery was deadpan so I'm still not sure if he was teasing us or just being a bastard.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention that we saw a moose. We were just rounding a corner when he came across him. He had one foot on the road and only turned back once he saw us. He was huge! I hear it's a good idea not to hit moose, they hurt. Actually,we have a whole lot of gruesome moose stories to impart but we'll wait until we get home and can trade them for beers.

Our tents at Destruction Bay.

Upon arrival in Destruction Bay, we bogarted the Internet work station at the Talbot Arms. We're travelling sans computer and it's been pretty hard to find one to use. Hence the delay in posting our blogs. We had a yummy meal at the Talbot Arms, tried to wash last night's fuel out of my clothes (unsuccessfully), and slept in the parking lot.

Day 13: Valdez to Tok

Keystone Canyon

Keystone Canyon

Horsetail Falls

Break time on the way out of Valdez

Remember to check the rear view mirror for awesome views!

August 12/2010: Another late start today and it took us forever to make the trip from Valdez to Tok (pronounced "toke") as we both kept falling asleep and had to stop for rest breaks.

We saw two bears, and spent some time investigating an ominous sound from coming from Bitchy Linda's rear brake.

Downtown Tok

You don't want to break down in Tok.

Tok auto repair. You can check in anytime you want, but you can never leave.

My white breakfast: I only ordered this Musher's Omelet because the waitress told me they were out of the accompanying gravy. She was all smiles when she located a secret stash of the gravy, smothered my breakfast in it and then proudly presented the dish at our table.  It was....interesting.

Once we arrived in Tok, we visited Fast Eddie's again for dinner. We actually had a salad! Let's just say that our "on the road" diet hasn't been exactly balanced. We've had chips for breakfast and cookies for dinner. This Fast Eddie's salad is actually just the second portion of vegetables we've had on our trip. (Or do french fries count as a veg?) In 13 days my riding gear has become so tight that I'm going to have to diet just so I can make the trip home. So, sadly, there is no Fast Eddie's dessert for me. Bummer, because they had four kinds of pie!  Mmmmm....pie.

The pilfered creamers.

Hailey stole some flavoured creamer from the restaurant, which subsequently burst and made a mess of her tank bag. That's karma for you. Then later, I discovered that the butane stove AND the gasoline water remover had spilled all over the safety gear, sleeping bags and my clothes. We spent a fun evening watching Jay Leno and wiping off our stuff. Of course the room ended up smelling like a garage as did my clothes. Hmm, I wonder if this will keep the bugs at bay?

Day 12: Valdez, still

August 11/2010: To date we have done 5,060 kms of our 8,000 km trip.


We stayed in a super posh hotel during our first night in Valdez. Two queen-sized beds dressed in Martha Stewart bedding with extra fluffy pillows, plush green carpeting, cable television and a jacuzzi tub. The place even had a pool and a hot tub! It was heaven. But not without its drawbacks.

Hailey's impromptu clothes line experiment came to a bitter end when it pulled the deadbolt shut and locked us out of the room. We had to call the maintenance teenager.

We decided to stay at a second night in Valdez, but there was no room at the swanky palace for us. So we opted to stay in the Keystone Hotel, which billed itself as the cheapest place in town. Sometimes you get what you pay for, or less.

While we appreciated the way something (i.e. this hotel room) could be so bad that it's actually funny or good (is there a word for that?), it was the little things that got to us. Like the loud snoring from the guy next door, the crusty flowered comforters, and the bathroom fan that sounded like a clunky old motor being started. Luckily, we brought booze to distract us.

Yummy, and homegrown!

I know! Gross eh? But apparently it goes very well in Bloody Marys. This bottle was left at the liquor store. 

M/V Lulu-Belle

However, we weren't in Valdez for the accommodation but for the scenery. We took a seven hour cruise aboard Lulu-Belle.

Valdez Harbour

Valdez is the sort of place that just can't catch a break. Born out of the Gold Rush Stampede in 1898, it was destroyed by 9.2 earthquake in 1964 and then suffered the aftermath of the Exon Valdez disaster in 1989. There are about 4,000 people living there now. Yeah, it's pretty small.

Valdez is surrounded by the Chugach Mountains, the tallest coastal mountains in North America, rising from sea level to an elevation of 7,000 feet. We spent a lot of time riding through clouds on our way to and from Valdez.

The Chugach Mountains are also the most heavily glaciated mountains in the Northwest. And those glaciers are melting and floating around the Prince William Sound.

Day 11: Anchorage to Valdez

See, even bears like pie for breakfast.

August 10/2010: Another day, another town. But first breakfast at Gwinnies.

Ariel of Alaska Rider Tours, Mark, Hailey

A visit to the local motorcycle adventure tour company.

Followed by shopping for motorcycle gear at Alaska Leather (aka "Barb's House of Leathers;" http://www.alaskaleathers.com/). No, I didn't buy the bra. But I did get some gear and a 20% discount for knowing Mark, being a member of ADVRider.com and dumping my ex last year. Score!

Faced with the ugly fact that I had packed too much stuff, not to mention the fact that I just bought more items at the motorcycle store, I made a donation to the local Goodwill.

I'm sure someone will really dig my UVic t-shirt.

Mark escorted us out of town on his Ducati.

We really, really wanted to stay another day in Anchorage but had to get back on the bikes and go. Valdez awaits!

We had our first glimpse of the Nelchina glacier on the way toValdez. 

On the Richardson Highway, just before heading into Thompson Pass. Stunted black spruce sit in a large beaver pond.  Creepy!

Rode through the clouds in Thompson Pass into a canyon lined with waterfalls. It was eerie--like being on another planet. And cold? Oh, boy! Yes, I know I'm in Alaska but I never dreamed it could get like this in the summer. It's cold and rainy and feels like a late October in Victoria. Not whining, just sayin'.