Maria & Hailey's Epic Ride to Alaska

Media, motorcycles and memories

2010-09-08T16:24:00.000-07:00

September 10, 2010: From the "milking it for all it's worth" file comes Hailey's and my trip to Alaska. Tally so far: a front page Saanich News/Oak Bay News story in August, and this week we're in the Oak Bay News again. We're also featured in the University of Victoria newspaper, The Ring

The Aftermath: Sparkle gets a bath/ Bitchin' Linda doesn't

2010-08-25T00:32:00.000-07:00

Sparkle before.

I left a lot of Alaska on my dad's driveway.

Sparkle after! Well the big service is still next. Do you think the guys at the shop will appreciate the clean?

Bitchin' Linda on the road. Funny thing, she's even dirtier now. But a wash and an oil change are imminent. Really.

Here's the reason that dirt and bugs still exist on Bitchin' Linda. I've got my hands full with house repairs. Ugh. Alaska seems so far away....

Day 22: Our first day home in Victoria

2010-08-25T00:20:00.000-07:00

Check out the big-ass diamond on Hailey's left hand. I guess Matt must have really really missed her.

Maria's surprise from Clint. Well, this and a new sunroom. And a birthday party.

Clint and Maria

August 21/2010: When we arrived home both of our boyfriends had surprises for us.

Patrick and Maria cut the cake

Patrick, wearing his birthday cake.

I wore a little cake too.

We celebrated Patrick's (another riding buddy) and my birthday.

Riding the "Corkscrew" at Laguna Seca.

Of course, we're already planning another trip. The Laguna Seca Raceway near Monterey, California, is one possibility. The racetrack is 3.602 km in length with a 91 m elevation change. It has 11 turns, including the famous "Corkscrew." I know Hailey will enjoy this, especially if she gets to participate in a track day. As for me? Maybe I'll do a lap of the track, or maybe I'll wimp out and watch Hailey while I drink a lemon martini.

Day 21: Port Hardy to Victoria

2010-08-25T00:18:00.000-07:00

Sparkle and Bitchin' Linda had company outside our Port Hardy hotel.

Um... some of the sights in our hotel parking lot.

Our Port Hardy hotel was a pretty grim two star property. So I guess four bears equals two stars?

August 20/2010: Today we made the 500 km trip from Port Hardy to Victoria. The ride was uneventful but boy was it hard to get used to riding in traffic again. We're home now, having clocked 8,300 kms in 21 days, ridden through two forest fires, and made a whole whack of new friends. Sparkle is going for her 30,000 km servicing this week and my Vstrom has a new name. She is no longer "Bitchy Linda" but "Bitchin' Linda." With all the good work she's done over the past few weeks I figure she deserves the compliment.

Day 20: Prince Rupert to Port Hardy

2010-08-25T00:14:00.000-07:00

Saying goodbye to Prince Rupert.

Tucking Sparkle and Bitchin' Linda in for the long ride

August 19/2010: We got up at obscenely early hour of 4:30 this morning to catch the BC ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy.

The ferry crossing took 15 hours. We amused ourselves by watching the scenery.

Hailey, Robert, Justin and Marc (our hilarious waiter)

Exit stage left.

Dining with new friends and touring the ship's engine room.

Surprisingly, these doors aren't always locked.

Eric took us on a tour of the engine room.

A cylinder liner!

Yikes! That looks like it would hurt. Eric said that if we got in the way of the stabilizers we'd "become lubricant."

This area is known as "void 14." Doesn't that sound like something out of a Douglas Adam's novel?

I regret that I did not have the nerve to lift the lid. Now I'll never know what Pierre was up to.

Day 19: Terrace to Prince Rupert

2010-08-25T00:05:00.000-07:00

August 18/2010: Terrace is a strange town. When we first arrived, two cops stopped us as we walked down the street with a warning that it wasn't safe to park our bikes downtown. Encouraging. Then there was the little matter of not being able to order a beer. Seems the downtown bars are only open Thursday to Sunday, because with the economic downturn Terrace residents aren't hitting the bars during the weekdays. Which was bad news for us as it was a hot Wednesday and we'd ridden a long way. In the end we had to settle for coffee at Starbucks.

Prince Rupert

We left Terrace in the morning to battle crosswinds on Highway 16 en route to Prince Rupert. Later that afternoon officials closed the highway because of the wind and...wait for it...another forest fire. Fellow bikers who drove the route right after us recounted tails of trees and power lines falling across the road!

Hailey, making the most of our new luxury digs. Can you see? She is telling everyone there are four pillows!

I guess BC Ferries' reduced room rate at the Crest Hotel doesn't include a sea view.

With BC Ferries' new vacation package (thanks to Frenchy for telling us about it because BC Ferries didn't) we were able to afford a room in the swanky Crest Hotel (http://www.cresthotel.bc.ca/accomodations) in Prince Rupert.

Hailey's beet and blue cheese salad at the Crest Hotel. Sadly I forgot to take photos of the lemon martinis.

After a lovely dinner at the Crest Hotel, where I discovered the most delicious drink in the world--lemon martinis--we headed to the casino. Right after Hailey took this photo of me at the slot machine (where I lost $9.77 by the way) an official rushed over and insisted we delete the photo. We complied but the photo didn't actually get erased as I thought Hailey had deleted it and she thought I was being sneaky. Anyway, here it is.

Day 18: Hyder, AK / Stewart, BC to Terrace

2010-08-17T20:48:00.000-07:00

August 17/2010: Sigh, another day another flat tire. Poor Hailey! Seems that puncture just won't hold the plug, or rather the plugs aren't keeping the air in. The answer? A bigger plug!

But no, the big plug doesn't do the job either. So Hailey resorts to using slime--fluorescent green goo/sealant-- considered the final solution when it comes to a job like this.

Unfortunately, all this fixing and inflating the rear tire with our little compression pump has worn out Sparkle's battery. Here you can see her getting lots of helpful advice. In the end we had to bump-start her bike by pushing her along Main Street.

We rode another 200 kms with Wayne and then said our goodbyes. He's such an awesome guy. We hope to run into him again soon.

Sigh. Another day, another grated bridge. (The Johnson Street bridge at home is going to be a snap compared to all of these northern bridges.) This is the Skeena Bridge in Terrace and not only is it grated. It has curves!

Anyway, long story short we're in Terrace tonight updating our blog in an Internet cafe. To date we've ridden 7,300 kms. Tomorrow we're heading to Prince Rupert where we'll catch the ferry home to Port Hardy.

Stay tuned...

Day 17: Iskut to Hyder, AK & Stewart, BC

2010-08-17T20:39:00.000-07:00

August 16/ 2010: So the three of us are off to Hyder, Alaska--which is located right across the border from Stewart, BC.

Bear Glacier on the way to Stewart.

The scenery is fantastic and there are some very nice curvy roads.


Main Street, Hyder

But with 100 people and two bars, one of the things that Hyder is best known for is the tradition of getting "hyderized."

At the Glacier Inn in Hyder, innkeeper Judy sells the highest proof alcohol that anyone can legally buy (150 proof), serves it to you in a shot glass and explains the rules. "No sipping, no smelling, just slamming."

Of course, we had to do it.

Once we became sober again, we took a little trip down a dusty gravel road to the park where you could watch grizzly bears fishing. It was all lots of fun until Hailey got another flat tire...

Day 16: The fire barrier to Iskut

2010-08-17T20:34:00.000-07:00

Morning on the Highway.

August 15/2010: After a fun night on the pavement, we were joined by nine other motorcyclists.

Including Wayne, who we met in Tok a few days back.

Of course, the barricade didn't open at 9 o'clock. So we had breakfast at Sally's Cafe with Linda and Clint from Texas, and Wayne from Vancouver.

This sign in Sally's washroom gave us a giggle.

A few hours later we rode through the fire--77 kms of smoke. We don't have any photos of that ride because, hey, we were concentrating on getting through it. But I snapped this photo of Wayne and Hailey 40 kms south of the fire. As you can see, the smoke was still pretty thick.

Sparkle's first flat tire

Wayne decided to hang out with us for awhile so we rode to Dease Lake together, where Hailey got her first flat tire. (Note the foreshadowing.)

Turns out Hailey has hidden mechanical talents.

Day 15: Destruction Bay to the fire barrier (junction of Highway 37N and the Alaska Highway)

2010-08-17T20:09:00.000-07:00

Maria catching some zzzzzzzzs.

August 14/2010: We've discovered that the forest fire that we rode through earlier in our trip has actually spread, and Highway 37 is closed again. This is a problem for us as it is the ONLY route that we can take to get home in time. Vehicles are being escorted through the fire on an irregular basis. We've got to get a move on and grab opportunity we can get--it's 680 kms away!

Junction to Highway 37.

When we got to the fire barrier, we were greeted with this confidence-inspiring signage. However, the guys guarding the barricade said that there might be a crossing at 9 the next morning.

Getting ready for bed.

So we decided to make the most of it and camp on the pavement. We had cup-o-noodle soup, cheezies, chocolate and red wine for dinner. Party on!

Day 14: Tok to Destruction Bay

2010-08-17T19:41:00.000-07:00

August 13/2010: Today's theme is road construction. Lots of it.

While waiting for the pilot car to lead us through the freshly graded deep loose gravel, this flagperson entertained us with tales of bikers having accidents and hitting bears. His delivery was deadpan so I'm still not sure if he was teasing us or just being a bastard.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention that we saw a moose. We were just rounding a corner when he came across him. He had one foot on the road and only turned back once he saw us. He was huge! I hear it's a good idea not to hit moose, they hurt. Actually,we have a whole lot of gruesome moose stories to impart but we'll wait until we get home and can trade them for beers.

Our tents at Destruction Bay.

Upon arrival in Destruction Bay, we bogarted the Internet work station at the Talbot Arms. We're travelling sans computer and it's been pretty hard to find one to use. Hence the delay in posting our blogs. We had a yummy meal at the Talbot Arms, tried to wash last night's fuel out of my clothes (unsuccessfully), and slept in the parking lot.

Day 13: Valdez to Tok

2010-08-17T19:25:00.000-07:00


Keystone Canyon

Keystone Canyon

Horsetail Falls

Break time on the way out of Valdez

Remember to check the rear view mirror for awesome views!

August 12/2010: Another late start today and it took us forever to make the trip from Valdez to Tok (pronounced "toke") as we both kept falling asleep and had to stop for rest breaks.

We saw two bears, and spent some time investigating an ominous sound from coming from Bitchy Linda's rear brake.

Downtown Tok

You don't want to break down in Tok.

Tok auto repair. You can check in anytime you want, but you can never leave.

My white breakfast: I only ordered this Musher's Omelet because the waitress told me they were out of the accompanying gravy. She was all smiles when she located a secret stash of the gravy, smothered my breakfast in it and then proudly presented the dish at our table. It was....interesting.

Once we arrived in Tok, we visited Fast Eddie's again for dinner. We actually had a salad! Let's just say that our "on the road" diet hasn't been exactly balanced. We've had chips for breakfast and cookies for dinner. This Fast Eddie's salad is actually just the second portion of vegetables we've had on our trip. (Or do french fries count as a veg?) In 13 days my riding gear has become so tight that I'm going to have to diet just so I can make the trip home. So, sadly, there is no Fast Eddie's dessert for me. Bummer, because they had four kinds of pie! Mmmmm....pie.

The pilfered creamers.

Hailey stole some flavoured creamer from the restaurant, which subsequently burst and made a mess of her tank bag. That's karma for you. Then later, I discovered that the butane stove AND the gasoline water remover had spilled all over the safety gear, sleeping bags and my clothes. We spent a fun evening watching Jay Leno and wiping off our stuff. Of course the room ended up smelling like a garage as did my clothes. Hmm, I wonder if this will keep the bugs at bay?

Day 12: Valdez, still

2010-08-14T08:59:00.000-07:00

August 11/2010: To date we have done 5,060 kms of our 8,000 km trip.

We stayed in a super posh hotel during our first night in Valdez. Two queen-sized beds dressed in Martha Stewart bedding with extra fluffy pillows, plush green carpeting, cable television and a jacuzzi tub. The place even had a pool and a hot tub! It was heaven. But not without its drawbacks.

Hailey's impromptu clothes line experiment came to a bitter end when it pulled the deadbolt shut and locked us out of the room. We had to call the maintenance teenager.

We decided to stay at a second night in Valdez, but there was no room at the swanky palace for us. So we opted to stay in the Keystone Hotel, which billed itself as the cheapest place in town. Sometimes you get what you pay for, or less.

While we appreciated the way something (i.e. this hotel room) could be so bad that it's actually funny or good (is there a word for that?), it was the little things that got to us. Like the loud snoring from the guy next door, the crusty flowered comforters, and the bathroom fan that sounded like a clunky old motor being started. Luckily, we brought booze to distract us.

Yummy, and homegrown!

I know! Gross eh? But apparently it goes very well in Bloody Marys. This bottle was left at the liquor store.

M/V Lulu-Belle

However, we weren't in Valdez for the accommodation but for the scenery. We took a seven hour cruise aboard Lulu-Belle.

Valdez Harbour

Valdez is the sort of place that just can't catch a break. Born out of the Gold Rush Stampede in 1898, it was destroyed by 9.2 earthquake in 1964 and then suffered the aftermath of the Exon Valdez disaster in 1989. There are about 4,000 people living there now. Yeah, it's pretty small.

Valdez is surrounded by the Chugach Mountains, the tallest coastal mountains in North America, rising from sea level to an elevation of 7,000 feet. We spent a lot of time riding through clouds on our way to and from Valdez.

The Chugach Mountains are also the most heavily glaciated mountains in the Northwest. And those glaciers are melting and floating around the Prince William Sound.

Day 11: Anchorage to Valdez

2010-08-13T22:39:00.000-07:00

See, even bears like pie for breakfast.

August 10/2010: Another day, another town. But first breakfast at Gwinnies.

Ariel of Alaska Rider Tours, Mark, Hailey

A visit to the local motorcycle adventure tour company.

Followed by shopping for motorcycle gear at Alaska Leather (aka "Barb's House of Leathers;" http://www.alaskaleathers.com/). No, I didn't buy the bra. But I did get some gear and a 20% discount for knowing Mark, being a member of ADVRider.com and dumping my ex last year. Score!

Faced with the ugly fact that I had packed too much stuff, not to mention the fact that I just bought more items at the motorcycle store, I made a donation to the local Goodwill.

I'm sure someone will really dig my UVic t-shirt.

Hailey gets her groove on, again.

Mark escorted us out of town on his Ducati.

We really, really wanted to stay another day in Anchorage but had to get back on the bikes and go. Valdez awaits!

We had our first glimpse of the Nelchina glacier on the way toValdez.

On the Richardson Highway, just before heading into Thompson Pass. Stunted black spruce sit in a large beaver pond. Creepy!

Rode through the clouds in Thompson Pass into a canyon lined with waterfalls. It was eerie--like being on another planet. And cold? Oh, boy! Yes, I know I'm in Alaska but I never dreamed it could get like this in the summer. It's cold and rainy and feels like a late October in Victoria. Not whining, just sayin'.

Day 10: Palmer to Anchorage

2010-08-13T22:32:00.000-07:00

August 9/2010: After spending another fabulous morning with Cissy, we forced ourselves to leave Palmer and get back on the road.

Maria, Becky and Hailey

When we were in Beaver Creek last week we ran into Jim, a truck driver from Anchorage whose wife Becky rides. Our mission for the day? To meet Becky and persuade her to ride to Valdez with us. Which would have happened if not for some bike drama with her 1986 Suzuki Intruder.

Mark, Singh, Hailey and Maria

So we put Plan B into action: Meet Singh and Mark--ADVRider.com guys from Anchorage who have been following our blog.
(Does this mean we're internationally famous?)

Well, one thing lead to another. Namely, pizza and "death by peanut butter" pie.

Mark and his wonderful closet o' leather.
He's single, fun, sexy and obsessed with motorcycles. Girls, come to Alaska!

Then it was off to Mark's house, his garage full of bikes and closet full of fabulous leather motorcycle gear.

And matching helmets!

Being the funksters they are, Mark and Singh are members of this exclusive Anchorage motorcycle group - Fukengruven!

Vic: Apparently living in Alaska makes you grow a chest pelt.

We met Vic, Mark's neighbour.

And Ruthie, Vic's houseguest from Kansas.

Who taught Hailey how to bellydance.

Playing dressup with Vic's wigs. Yes, we also wondered why he had a closet full of wigs.

We asked them to adopt us (permanently) but there was no room for our motorcycles in either garage. Sadly, it was obviously just a one night stand.

Day 9: Palmer, just Palmer

2010-08-09T17:05:00.000-07:00

August 8/2010: We stayed overnight at Cissy and Bob's where Hailey crossed off something on her bucket list.

Yeah, we unloaded some lead.

Cissy was an excellent teacher!

That's one dead box! By the way, Cissy said we were naturals. I guess we can quit our day jobs now eh?

After our shooting spree, the four of us rode down to Turnagain Arm en route to Girdwood (on the Kenai Peninsula). Holy shit! Hella crosswinds! Seriously, it was blowing 30 kms--in gusts of course--and made a beautiful ride...um...invigorating. Hailey says it was like a spa treatment with all that rain and wind.Then Cissy and Bob treated us to dinner at a cool Cajun restaurant in Girdwood. Yummy!

Day 8 : Mile 134.4 Highway 3 to Palmer

2010-08-09T16:55:00.001-07:00

August 7/2010: We left the Mary Carey Mt. McKinley Lodge and headed south to Wasilla. But a lot of things can happen between here and there, and they did.

At the Trapper Creek Trading Post gas station Bitchy Linda had a small mishap. Sigh. Which resulted in some free yellow paint for Maria (and her unfortunate incontinence-inducing rain suit) when she fell off the bike and onto the curb, as well as leaving Bitchy Linda's clutch handle a little worse for wear.

The stop and flop, and a mysterious sound from Hailey's chain, lead us to the first bike shop we could find in Wasilla. Which just happened to be the Denali Harley-Davidson Shop (907-FREEDOM; www.denaliharley.com) and Wow! Really, wait to you hear what happened next!

Paul

Heroes to Sparkle and Bitchy Linda: Paul, Mitch, Shawn, Greg

Upon meeting two stressed out Canadian travellers, General Manager Paul Ramage put his arms around us and said, "let's go to the bike hospital." Our bikes received the attention they required....

This doesn't really need a caption but a certain person who is planning our homecoming/birthday party should keep this particular meal in mind as it is the birthday girl's favourite grub. Just sayin'

After making the bikes feel better, Paul and his employees invited us to stay for the 5th anniversary of the local Harley Chapter 1836.

Where we had party games, great conversation and Maria won the door prize--literally. Each year the chapter gets someone to sign their door. Boy was Maria ever surprised when she found out she had the winning ticket!

They tried to convince Hailey to buy a Harley. (Note that she is already wearing Harley colours--orange and black!)

We met Bob and Cissy at the party who invited us to stay with them at their home in Palmer (just outside of Wasilla).

Precious their pit bull is the friendliest dog we've ever met. We received some kitty loving too from Tigger and....okay, we can't remember the other cat's name. Sorry puss.

Day 7: Fairbanks to mile 134.4 on Highway 3

2010-08-09T16:55:00.000-07:00

August 6/2010: To date we've travelled just over 4,000 kms. The bikes needed an oil change so we turned to the men at Thunder Road in Fairbanks for help. (907-479-7433).

Randy working on the VStrom (aka "Bitchy Linda")

Randy and Jerry

Maria, Hailey, Jerry

Not only did they provide us with fantastic service, Randy loaned us his car so we could go for breakfast! Never have we felt so well taken care of. Thanks guys!

The Thunder Road boys suggested that we visit "The Bakery" for breakfast. Hailey ate reindeer sausage--which tastes like pepperoni. We had a laugh at the local ads printed on the tables. The menu provided some giggles too. Mashed potatoes and gravy as an appetizer! That's messed up!

Sounds like a one night stand to me.

After leaving Fairbanks, we encountered lots of rain and mud. In fact, ever since we left Tok it has been raining. And cold! Have I whined about the cold already? No? Well, let's just say I have been having electric vest fantasies--and coveting Hailey's electric jacket--for about 1200 kms now. Good thing she is so much smaller than me or I'd arm wrestle her for it. Anyway, I digress. Today's ride was muddy.

We rode through the Denali National Park which was so beautiful. But rainy.

After about 300 kms of rain and mud we stopped at the Mary Carey McKinley View Lodge at mile 134.4 on Highway 3. Or, as we like to call it "The Shrine to Pine."

The shrine is famous for its view of Mt. McKinley, the biggest mountain in North America. See it? No, we didn't either.

Hailey and Haley (no "I"--it's faster that way).

The highlight of our night at the shrine was Haley, shrine employee and a recent transplant from the lower 48.

Hailey also enjoyed the Snow Goose beer, brewed in Anchorage. And while she drank, I called up Sarah Palin to invite her to go riding with us in Wasilla the next day. Unfortunately, no one answered the phone. I tried not to take it personally.

Oh yeah, we saw two things on day 7 that don't really fit into the story here, but they were cool nonetheless.This red truck is covered in packing tape. Seems the owner couldn't find a bra for the truck and decided this was the best way to protect it from rocks. Hmmm...

This is a tool kit made from ABS pipe. Hint to Clint: I think Bitchy Linda needs one of these.

Day 6: Beaver Creek to Fairbanks

2010-08-06T01:49:00.000-07:00

August 5/2010: Laundry day. If only Hailey had brought more clothes with her, she wouldn't have to wear her bathing suit in the laundry mat.

We've been meeting some very cool people on the trip, including Sue and Robyn who rode up here from California.

After leaving Beaver Creek at the crack of 2 pm, and fueled by lots of coffee, we made it to the border.

But now that we're here officer, just how closely do we have to follow the speed regulations?

Then we stopped for a little something to eat at Fast Eddie's in Tok.

Maria having to sit down in order to put on her rain suit. Eventually, Hailey had to help.

After a grease-filled but super yummy meal at Fast Eddie's we drove in the rain. Man, does it ever rain here. This is me struggling to put on my rain suit over my boots. I seem to have a similar problem with my new mesh riding pants. Who are these people who design motorcycle gear? Do they have any idea how awkward it is to have to take off your boots each time you want to gear up, or remove your gear? Plus, by the time you've put on all the gear you gotta piddle. Can I hear an amen?

We stayed overnight at the University of Alaska dorms that has a special $43/night rate for motorcyclists. Spread the good word. (907-474-7247; housing@uaf.edu)

Tired. Not drunk. Tired

Our dorm room--clean, cozy and cheap. However, the glow-in-the-dark writing on the ceiling kind of freaked us out. The inscription above Hailey's bed read "I'm watching" while I stared at a demonic face all night. What the heck?

Day 5 (part 2); Teslin to Beaver Creek

2010-08-06T01:32:00.002-07:00

August 4/2010: After spending the night in Teslin (home of that massive grated bridge) we rode to Whitehorse and spent the day doing chores.

Preparing to clean and lube our chains.
People in Whitehorse are very friendly - we got at least three men offering to help us.

Had a great Mexican meal at Sanchez Catina.

We didn't do any non-motorcycle related shopping in Whitehorse. But this sign did give Maria some ideas on how to get rid of her crap, um, "collectibles."

Lake Kluane: We rode through strong crosswinds from Whitehorse to Destruction Bay. But the scenery was worth it.

Hailey and I like to ride at night, taking advantage of the 11:30 pm sunsets.The road from Destruction Bay to Beaver Creek was lunar; huge craters and patches of everything--gravel, earth, fresh pavement, old pavement, sealed crush. It was a big mess and all of the danger spots were unmarked. But we LOVED it!! Sure it took us 3.5 hours to go 190kms, in the dark but it felt like a real adventure. Or was that a roller coaster. Oh yeah, and we saw a porcupine. Total wildlife count so far: numerous deer, 4 bears, 1 moose and a porcupine. And guess what, not one single bunny!

Arrived in Beaver Creek at 2 am. Stayed in a shitty hotel full of drama between the staff and and the owner, but not in a good sort of Fawlty Towers way.

Day 5: Teslin to ????

2010-08-04T22:03:00.000-07:00

August 4/2010: We're in Destruction Bay, Yukon, heading north and hoping to make the Alaska border tonight. But we just had to stop for some pie (pecan if you're interested) and another computer hit. An article about us was published in our local paper. Our mileage thus far (as in right now as the bikes sit outside the restaurant) is 2,900 kms.

Day 4: Forest fire--Dease Lake to Teslin

2010-08-04T12:18:00.000-07:00

August 3/2010: We got up really early this morning, riding through epic mountain mist (visibility 10-15 feet) and freshly graded loose gravel. It took us an hour to ride just 40kms.

Inside the only store in Jade City.

At the bottom of the hill we came to Jade City, population 34. Isn't there some sort of rule that you have to actually be a city before you can call yourself one?

Next there was the fuel issue. Motorcycles have small fuel tanks and there are few gas stations on that highway. The last one on the route had run out of gas. So by the time we arrived at the fire barricade we had just enough fuel to get through the fire and not enough to make it back to an open gas station.

Four hours later we're at the road closure, waiting with 40 other vehicles to travel through the fire to the Alaska Highway. Some of these people have been waiting for two days!

Abi, Marc, Fiona, Hailey, Maria

We met some cool folks while waiting for the road to reopen. We hung out together for two hours and then rode through the fire. Check out Marc's blog. http://www.frenchysrant.com/

Riding through the forest fire at the top of Highway 37. Thanks to Fiona for snapping these photos from the back of Marc's bike.

Once we made it to the Alaskan border it was time for a treat and a ride in the sunshine.

Another photo courtesy of Fiona.

Watsons Lake.

This is the Nitsutlin bridge on the way to Teslin. At 0.6km, it is the longest overwater bridge on the highway AND it's grated! No surprise that there's a bar at the other end of it.

Day 3: Heading to the fire--Smithers to Dease Lake

2010-08-02T11:53:00.000-07:00

Highway 37 Both Directions

Closed in both directions between Beaverdam Rest Area, at KM 650 and the BC/Yukon Border because of Forest Fire. Temporary opening is planned for Aug. 2nd Northbound traffic will be escorted through the fire at 8:00 AM. Southbound at 9:30 A.M. Low Confidence level. These openings may be cancelled at any time due to extremely unpredictable fire behaviour. Recommended route is via Hwy 97, Alaska Hwy. Next update at 8:00 pm Aug 2nd. Updated on Mon.Aug 2nd at 8:30 am (ID# 98697)

Today's Drive BC Road Report

Forest fire at the BC/Yukon border.

August 2/2010: We're in Smithers this morning, using the business centre at the Hudson Bay Lodge. Had a wonderful breakfast but then found out that our route North along Highway 37 (to Watson Lake) is closed because of a forest fire. So we've looked at taking a ferry from Prince Rupert to anywhere in Alaska but that's a no go. We're just going to boot it up there and hope to go through the border with the next fire escort. It's a two day ride from here.

This is the last stop before we head to Highway 37N and, eventually, to the Alaskan Highway. We met a group of bikers who tried very hard to persuade us to go to Stewart and avoid the fire. But you can't get to anywhere but Hyder from Stewart so we decide to stick to our route. This is Darrell who gifted us with two new expressions. My nerdy yellow reflective safety vest is a "hit me vest." And if you happen to be unemployed then your current occupation is "fresh air inspector."

Meziadin Lake is a lot smaller in real life then on the map. As in there is nothing here! Maria flagged down a passing biker to ask for news of the next gas station and the fire. We're off to Bell II for grub and gas.

In Bell II, we met Corey the massage therapist from Colorado who gave us each a free massage!

There are bugs up here. We just make sure to keep our visors closed so we don't end up eating them.

Dease Lake liquor store. Yep, this is the whole place--smaller than my office at UVic. Note the brand loyalty. Seems people here really really like Budweiser.

Day 2: Lillooet to Burns Lake

2010-08-02T11:03:00.000-07:00

August 1/2010: Breakfast a go-go--bananas, yogurt, cookies and Clamato juice!

Clint: This one's for you baby!

We could smell the smoke as we drove through clouds of it approaching Williams Lake. There are forest fires in the area and warnings that parts of Highway 37 North are closed. Gulp.

"Brad" the Pom, and his driver Dave enroute from Williams Lake to Prince George.

Spreading the gospel of Lemon Pledge to nurse Carleen in Prince George. She says she's going to ride her 1984 Shadow 750 to Victoria at the end of the summer and come for a ride with us. We're holding you to that Carleen!

Heading into the rain and Burns Lake. Saw our first bear enroute.

We stopped for gas along the "Highway of Tears." This sign is a sad reminder of how vulnerable our lives can be. Right across the street from this sign a woman was hitchhiking.

According to the barmaid at Mulvany's Pub in Burns Lake, the #1 drink of choice among the residents is beer. The second is "holy water" and the third is "trouble." Of course, being the true adventurer that she is, Hailey tried all three. Her she is drinking trouble. PS: I was the designated walker as our hotel was across the street.

There was no food to be had in Burns Lake. Luckily we had some camping soup and a coffee pot to make it in!

Depature Day: Victoria to Lillooet

2010-08-02T10:45:00.000-07:00

July 31/2010: Bit of a late start this morning. Apparently 5 am comes a little too early for us.

Maria & Clint

It was an awesome ride along the Sea to Sky Highway to Pemberton. Then things got a little "challenging" on the way to Lillooet. Like pavement turning into a steep gravel hill into a paved hairpin right turn. Thank goodness for Paul teaching me (Maria) how to ride on gravel. Which I rock at now by the way! (No pun intended.)


BC Hydro Campsite, Lillooet


Gear Tent

12 Hours Until Blastoff

2010-07-30T16:50:00.000-07:00

With just hours to go before we leave, Hailey is getting more and more excited and I'm beginning to freak out about the length of the ride, that legendary one km long grated bridge and, of course, bears. I've heard enough bear stories to last a lifetime. Plus--you'll love this one--for the past few days there's been a bear lurking outside our house. It's adding a certain danger/anxiety factor to gearing up in the morning or riding home late at night.

And speaking of anxiety, I'm meeting my nemesis tonight. That's right, it's my first lesson on how to ride on gravel. Shiny side up...I hope!

The Preparation: Apparently, makeup is essential

2010-07-29T08:13:00.000-07:00

July 29/2010: Two days to go before the trip and somehow the stuff Maria plans to take to Alaska has grown by at least a third. And yet it all seems essential. Mascara and lipstick are essential right?

The Preparation: Seal Line Baja Bag 55L

2010-07-28T15:23:00.000-07:00

July 28/2010: I really like these Seal Line bags. Once I saw Maria's, I had to get two of my own. 55 liters - so much space!

Saanich News Interview

2010-07-27T14:48:00.000-07:00

July 27/2010: Today, the Saanich News interviewed us about our Alaska trip.

Having a giggle with Saanich News reporter Vivian Moreau.

Posing for photographer Sharon Tiffin.

The Preparation: Yukon Magnum

2010-07-26T22:43:00.000-07:00

July 26/2010: Yukon Magnum is the brand name of our bear spray. I feel like Dog the Bounty Hunter.

Just days to go

2010-07-26T13:30:00.000-07:00

July 26/2010: Life motto/ Trip motto.

The Shakedown Trip: Ucluelet

2010-07-25T20:56:00.000-07:00

July 15/2010: The bikes get packed up with everything we'd be taking to Alaska. We leave for Ucluelet, and the Soundwave 2010 electronic music festival (http://soundwavemusicfestival.ca/). The 300 km trip should give us an idea of what works and what needs changing!

Okay, I'll admit it. The very thought of riding on gravel makes me (Maria) nervous. The road to Soundwave could be an excellent practice opportunity except that I am wussing out and leaving the VStrom in town. There are a sports bike riders braving the route so it can be done. Don't know how I'm going to do the trip through Alaska without encountering gravel but I'm willing to try. Or maybe not. Hailey will probably have to bribe me with king-size peanut butter cups.

Setting up camp on Mussel Beach.

July 16/2010: We set up the tent! It's quite cozy (read "too small"), especially with all of our food in there. And the air mattresses aren't airy enough. So there's more shopping to be done: bigger and better air mattresses, a pup tent to serve as a closet for our gear, warmer clothes and fewer toiletries!

July 16/2010: Chef Hailey makes the coffee. This is her third try at boiling water. Yeah, I don't think we'll be doing a lot of cooking on this trip.

Clothing is somewhat optional at Soundwave but the costumes are great!

Apparently, RCMP officers are not big fans of guerillas. This one is receiving a ticket for what I'm not sure.

We met some very cool people at Soundwave. From left to right Jess, Eliah, Hailey and Lee-Anne. (Missing: Nils)

The extremely cool Nils, beach pal and talented fire-maker.

No, surprisingly, this guy isn't in costume.

A hot dog and his two mustards.

Gumby gets his groove on.

It's all about the costumes at Soundwave.

The Preparation: Learning from the Pros

2010-07-08T16:36:00.000-07:00

July 5/2010: Hailey and Tom plan the route. We've met a lot of cool people while preparing for this trip. Tom Fitterer (pictured here with Hailey and me) is an amazing rider who has been everywhere! Plus, he used to be a tour guide in Alaska. Great connection. Thanks Craigslist!

Hailey's notes on where to go and what to see. Okay, there were more bear stories and other cautionary tales but oh boy--glaciers here we come!

The Preparation: The Gear

2010-07-05T17:24:00.000-07:00

July 3/2010: Apparently, there are bugs in Alaska. Big bugs that go splat and sting when you hit them at 120kms/hr. But hey, we've got balaclavas as protection!

The Preparation: Working out the Details

2010-06-22T23:13:00.000-07:00

June 20/2010:Fueled by my candied ginger scones Maria and I dove into more research for the trip.

Sunscreen, toilet paper, ziploc bags, allen key kit....We're trying to pack light.

Do you think we can see Russia from Wasilla Alaska? Only one way to find out!

Welcome to Bear Country. Eep!

After reading about bears, moose and other ferocious creatures we got a little freaked. So we turned to Craigslist for advice.

The first injury of the trip! Poor Maria stubs her toe! Nothing a cold beer won't fix.

The Preparation: Bike Maintenance

2010-06-22T22:58:00.000-07:00

June 15/2010: Hailey and I become budding mechanics. Our first lesson with Yanick.

How to fix a tubeless tire.

And when all else fails there's green slime.

The Preparation: Learning from the Pros

2010-06-22T22:55:00.000-07:00

June 12/2010: Hailey and Paul "The Iceman" Mondor--who rides his Dakar across Canada in the winter. We asked him out and peppered him with questions on how best to travel the 8,000 km trip to Alaska without killing ourselves. He gave us lots of advice, and then told us that you can clean just about anything with lemon pledge.

The pledge guy in action. Apparently my new bike has blue sparkles in the paint job. Cool.

We should plug Paul's website www.paulmondor.com

The Preparation: Rider Training

2010-06-22T22:50:00.000-07:00

Maria and I figured some extra rider training wouldn't be such a bad idea. Our new bikes were a lot taller than our old ones, which was taking some getting used to, and we could also brush up on some road trip specific skills.

June 12/2010: We need to know how to pick up our bikes before we go. Here we are trying our technique on a 250 Rebel.

Apparently, our technique needs work.

Instructor Richard does it like the pro he is.

The Bikes

2010-06-22T22:40:00.000-07:00

Maria and I had been talking about Alaska for a couple months, but it only started to feel real once I had bought my new bike with Alaska in mind. I had previously been riding a 1988 Yamaha FZR 250, more of a race bike then a touring bike. I'm not so sure my new bike would be called a touring bike either, but it's a step closer in that direction. Say hello to my 2005 Honda 919. I named her Sparkle.

Hailey's bike, Sparkle

Maria followed suit. Purchasing a real touring bike. The proper bike to go to Alaska on. Trading in her electric blue Suzuki GSF500, Maria is now the owner of a 2009 VStrom 650 She's finding her new bike challenging (current score bike:3 Maria:0) because of the high centre of gravity and the fact that it's a heavy bike. She has therefore named the V-Strom "The Bitch."

Maria's bike, Bitchy Linda